February means cold, rain, muddy shoes, more rain, and… international rugby. While fans from Wales, England, Ireland, Scotland, France and Italy (no, this isn’t what I think will be the final standings) will have their Six Nations, supporters from Portugal, Spain, Romania, Georgia, Netherlands, Germany, Belgium and Poland will be treated to another Rugby Europe Championship (REC).
For those not familiar with it, the Rugby Europe Championship is a European tournament played every year and has been the main stage to earn a place in any given Rugby World Cup. In 2023 the REC expanded from six to eight nations, moving from a one to a two-pool format and adding two full weekends of knockout games.
In 2024, the Finals Day will be played in Paris, as all eight contestants will meet at the Stade Jean Bouin, Stade Français’ home ground.
For five weeks, the beautiful and historical cities of Bucharest, Tbilisi, Lisbon, Amsterdam, Brussels, Dessau, Madrid, and others, will be the centre stage for the best of the Emerging European Nations scene.
This is the basic gist of it… now let’s go to the good part. In a series of articles, I’ll help you to get your footing not only with the Rugby Europe Championship but also with who’s who, what are the best spots to go to, etc, etc. In this first one, I’ll tell you a bit about each of the main cities, where to go, and their rugby heritage.
How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Olá | Adeus | Cerveja, por favor
How’s it in the winter: Cold but not too cold. If it rains, add 30 minutes to your driving commute
Best spot to go for a drink: Cais do Sodré – has a lot of bars, clubs and restaurants – but to watch rugby go to The George Pub
A delicacy to taste: Pastéis de Nata (be it in Pastéis de Belém or A Manteigaria)
Lisbon, Europe’s westernmost capital, home of at least 12 rugby clubs and a city that pulsates with life.
Let’s start with the obvious: where’s the Lobos lair? In the Centro de Alto Rendimento do Jamor, in the outskirts of the city. From the centre you have a tram that goes almost directly to it and you’ll need to walk for an extra 10 minutes.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t have a food court, but between Cais do Sodré and Jamor there’s a lot of nice places to stop. If you have a sweet tooth, then hop down in Belém, and go for the Pastéis de Belém, which are lovely Portuguese cream custards. There’s a couple of good bars and restaurants in that quaint part of the city, so it’s a win-win situation.
Between Belém and Monsanto you can visit three of the oldest rugby clubs in Portugal, be it Belenenses Rugby, GD Direito (current champions) and AEIS Agronomia.
How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Hola / Adiós / Cerveza, por favor
How’s it in the winter: It can get cold, but normally is a mild city far from the sea and mountains
Best spot to go for a drink: In the “Central” you have one of the finest pubs/bars in the city and it is adjacent to the stadium!
A delicacy to taste: Patatas Bravas (potatoes with a special sauce)
Madrid is one of the busiest capitals of the Old Continent, packed with fun stops, top restaurants and a lively mood that will swoop your feet.
It’s one of the homes of the Leones (Valladolid is the main Spanish rugby capital, and you should go there).
Spain will only play one home game and will be hosted in the Estadio Nacional Complutense, most known as “Central” which is only 12 minutes by tram from the city centre or 15 by walking as long you go don’t stray away from the Gran Via.
Cisneros is one of Madrid’s most known clubs and they play in the “Central”, so you can lose a bit of time to get to know their heritage and legacy, as they helped breed some of Spain’s finest legends.
As a good Spanish friend of mine said, “If there’s anything that there’s no shortage of in Madrid, it’s definitely bars.
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How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Salut sau buna | La revedere | O bere va rog!
How’s it in the winter: Not Antarctica cold, but it can dip below five degrees, so bring (very) warm clothes
Best spot to go for a drink: Fire Club or the Extra Time
A delicacy to taste: Mici (minced meat on a grill with herbs)
A gem of a city, even if you have to deal with the cold of winter. Bucharest is an action-packed city, as it has its own thermal waters, a buzzing nightlife and a deep passion for sport.
Visiting the Old City is a must, as you will find entertainment at every corner, be it in the local pubs and restaurants (go to Caru Cu Bere, a XIX century spot) or museums.
As for rugby legacy, Steaua and Dinamo are two of the most well-known clubs in Romania, owning a long and remarkable story. You can visit them, as it is a quick tour and it won’t take much of your time.
The stadium is only 20 minutes from the centre either by car or public transportation. The National de Rugby Arcul de Triumf is in the north part of the city, near Agronomia (agriculture) campus and the biggest park of Bucharest, Herastrau.
If you feel up to throw some balls before the start of the game, please do it, but beware that the Romanians don’t play around!
How to say hello / goodbye / beer, please: Gamarjoba / Nakhvamdis / Ludi tu sheidzleba
How’s it in the winter: It depends… it can be freezing cold, but when the sun is out, it’s a lovely mix of fresh and hot
Best spot to go for a drink: Browns Bar
A delicacy to taste: Khachapuri (cheese and bread, what’s not to like about?)
Tbilisi is a feast for the eyes, a city that deserves to be uncovered as it has some of the most beautiful plazas and streets you will find.
The Georgian capital is also one of the best places to indulge if you are a foodie, be it Khachapuri, Khinkali, or Adjarian Khachapuri (a literal cheese boat).
The games will be played at Avchala Stadium, which is like an hour away from the city centre by public transport, and half an hour by car, depending on the traffic. Yeah, it’s not immediately right next to centre of Tbilisi but it will be worth your time.
As for sports bars, there are not many choices but the Browns Bar (Gloucester fans loved it), and Pub 44 which is a sports bar where they show rugby frequently. 2 Tons, a pub franchise, has its own-made good craft beer and is always showing sports.
How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Hallo / Tschüss / Ei bier bitte
How’s it in the winter: Cold to the point your teeth will tap dance
Best spot to go for a drink: Café Bar &Sport Bar
A delicacy to taste: Brauhaus zum alten dessauer (sausage, pork meat and gravy)
Welcome to the Paul Greifzu Stadium in Dessau-Roßlau, which will host Germany’s only home game of the season. Dessau-Roßlau was created in 2007, the result of a merge between two historical Saxony-Anhalt towns.
It doesn’t have a legendary nightlife, but a German bar is… a German bar, which means good beer, good food and good entertainment.
The stadium is adjacent to the city centre, so you can just walk to it!
How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Bonjour / Adieu / une bière s’il vous plaît
How’s it in the winter: Mildly cold
Best spot to go for a drink: Marché aux Herbes
A delicacy to taste: Waffles or Fries with different sauces
For rugby fans, Mons offers much more than a picturesque landscape.
Rugby is at the heart of this southern Belgian town, and it will sure capture your attention the minute you step inside.
Mons has some good nightlife that you can find mostly at the Marché aux Herbes, and for the REC some bars, like the Quartier Latin, will host a special party pre/post-match.
The Mons Rugby pitch is 15 minutes from the centre, and it is perfect for those who want to be at peace and only focused in the rugby mood.
How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Hoi / doei / Bier alstublieft
How’s it in the winter: You will feel a creeping cold sensation, but Amsterdam is lovely at that time of the year
Best spot to go for a drink: Leidsche Plein (a whole area dedicated to pub life)
A delicacy to taste: Haring (a fish that you eat in one go)
Amsterdam is starting to wake up to rugby, as in the last two years they have hosted a couple of big match-ups for the Rugby Europe Super Cup, and have also hosted a Cheetahs match. It’s a city that you can walk and cycle, finding whatever you need to have a great time before or after a rugby match.
The National Rugby Centre is on the outskirts of the city, but it’s just a half an hour commute to get there and you can take the bus or go by car, or, if you feel adventurous, just cycle to it.
The Leidsche Plein is your waterhole central, as it provides a wonderful service of pubs, bars, and restaurants. But if you want to drink, eat some chips and watch rugby, go to O’Reilly’s, as it has that rugby-sports vibe you are looking for.
How to say hello / goodbye / beer please: Cześć or Witam / Do widzenia / Jedno piwo proszę
How’s it in the winter: As you would expect, as cold as inside of freezer
Best spot to go for a drink: None to be specific
A delicacy to taste: Klopsiki (a type of meatball) or Pierogi (stuffed dumplings)
Welcome to Gdynia, a stunning city from Medieval times that lives next to the Baltic Sea and who will host two games of the Rugby Europe Championship 2024. It’s a fairly easy city to walk through, as the Stadium is close to the centre, practical especially due to the weather conditions.
The only downside? There are no rugby bars. So, if you feel in the mood to go out, just grab a taxi/car and drive to visit Gdansk, which has a lovely selection of pubs and fine dining. Gdynia, Sopot and Gdansk are called the Tri-City due to their proximity. They are literally one after each other with almost no visible division.
